Grand Canyon - R2R2R

"The journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step" Lao Tzu - Tao Te Ching

The "before" shot - denial firmly set in...."This is crazy!"

While I'm convalescing on the couch, I decided to pass my time by recounting my recently completed run.

Last September, a group of friends and I went to the Grand Canyon to attempt a Rim to Rim to Rim run.  (R2R2R).  We started on the North Rim and bailed out at the South Rim.  A number of excuses - It was too hot, we had stomach issues, got too far behind our time goal, etc.  Even though we didn't accomplish our goal, I considered it the most amazing run - until now

We set out with a new plan, with some new players and armed with the experience of knowing the trail landmarks. We decided to do it in November - when the weather would be much cooler.  The heat really got to us last year.  We decided to start at the South Rim this time.  The North Rim lodging was closed and there were no support opportunities there.

I liken this strategy to when the explorer Cortez burned his ships upon arrival in the new world. No turning back! We are fully in or do not attempt.  

My partners were Gary Benson, John Stevens, Steven Griffith and Dave Lindeman. John had a few friends join us from Michigan to do the run (Jeff and Jerry) as well.  Dave wanted to experience the canyon and had no interest in running the entire thing.  His goal was to run to the bottom, turn around and run back up to the South Rim.  The equivalent of doing a Rim-to-Rim.  A huge accomplishment in its own right. Originally, there were several others that had planned to come but were unable to make it.

We arrived at the South Rim around 8 pm.  We met for dinner and discussed the plan/strategy for the run.  I have been doing crazy endurance events with Gary for over 20 years and was looking forward to accomplishing this with him.  I've been running with John for about 13 years - he is much faster than Gary and I.  Steven has done several ultra's and offers hours of unsolicited entertainment. Steven also is much faster than Gary and I.

At dinner, I said to John - "We should stick together for the first half - then do whatever feels right."  He quickly responded with "I think everyone should do their own pace for the entire run."

So it seemed that John had a time goal...

This is a 46+ mile run.  I had no idea how my body, legs and brain would respond to the stress of the run.  Gary is really good at keeping me moving at a sustainable pace.  Steven and John both think I am much faster than I really am.  I keep telling them that I am tall, not fast!  My goal was to finish - period.  I have a history of starting out too fast.  I was not going get sucked into my interpretation of John's challenge.

So Gary and I would pair off - Dave would join us as well.  John would pair up with Steven. Hopefully whatever John was thinking for time, doesn't hurt him in the long run.

Jeff and Jerry from Michigan would pair off as well.

We predicted that this would take anywhere from 16-20 hours to complete.  We took our obligatory group photos in the dark that, of course,  didn't come out.  With no announcer to get us revved up, unceremoniously we were off.  We hit the trail Friday morning at 4:15am.  John, Steven, Jeff and Jerry were gone pretty quickly.  I hoped we would catch up at one of the campgrounds ahead.

We started our journey at 7,000 feet on the Bright Angel Trail.  The steep trail descends quickly along the south rim wall through many switchbacks.  I have never been on this trail in the light and cannot comment on the views other than from the top.

Elevation Profile

I spent the first hour or so trying to arrange and distribute the weight of my pack so it was as comfortable as it could be.  I chose to use the same pack as last year: a Go-Light Rush pack that held a 3 liter hydration bladder with an add on Salomon front pack for easy access to food, camera and other necessities.  I used super-light hiking poles to help assuage both the the uphill pulls and the downhill crashes on my knees and hips.

One thing that I have experienced with these long events, is that I also must manage the distribution of gas, liquid and solids in terms of bodily functions both upward and downward. Mis-management of any of the aforementioned factors can make for a really great or a really bad day!  This includes transit times of both liquid and solid fuel (by fuel, I mean food).  The goal with the gasses is to minimize the production of them at all costs as they can lead to problems with the other 2.  Some of us do better with this than others.

I tried to super hydrate on the drive from Denver and not get caught eating food that I know would come back to haunt me the next day during the run. The best laid plans....

All I can say is thank goodness there were several bathrooms the first 5 miles.  I think I visited at least half of them.  Still not satisfied.  My stomach wasn't unbearable, but it wasn't fully comfortable either. It didn't stop me from running so I marched onward with the hope that time would resolve my issues.

The sun started to come up at around 6 am.  The contrasting views illustrated by the changing light, shadows and textures of the landscape throughout the day were spectacular.

Sunrise at the bottom of Devil's Corkscrew

Downhill is the evil seduction of false hope. We were cruising along happy and steady.  My mind was feeling confident that today would be no problem.  As we approached the Colorado River, I ran ahead to get some pictures of Gary and Dave and the river as the light of the morning sun spilled over the canyon.

We entered Phantom Ranch at around 7:00 am. This is about the 10 mile marker and the end of the wonderful downhill. My stomach was feeling better, but I wasn't hungry and had to really force the food and the water.  I distributed some cargo from the back pack to the front pack for easy access to food.  I was cursing that I brought pants and a jacket as it was perfect weather for running in shorts.  I try to be prepared for anything, and I was worried about it being really cold on the North Rim.  We filled up our water bladders and re-packed our packs.

Off we went onto the North Kaibab trail.  Next stop was the Pumphouse Ranger Station, approximately 10 miles of gradual uphill.

Dave was doing great.  I thought he might be tempted to go the distance with us but after about another hour of running with us, he turned around to head back.  He probably did 25 miles. A spectacular run Dave!

We entered into a slot canyon for the next 5 miles or so.  The trail follows Bright Angel Creek and has amazing views, several bridges to cross and a completely different light profile in the slot canyon.  This part of the trail is called the "Vishnu Schist".

Gary and Dave crossing one of the many bridges

Throughout this section and the next, we started to encounter other R2R2R's.  There were maybe 10 others on the trail that day with the same goal in mind.

Waterfall at Bright Angel Creek

As we exited the Vishnu, the trail started to increase its steepness grade.  We made it to the Pumphouse Ranger Station ahead of the time that Gary predicted.  We were moving fairly comfortably.  I visited the outhouse once again, and this time I left very satisfied as I dropped some serious solid waste out of my bowels - Finally!

This was the last opportunity for water until we get to the North Rim - a steep 5.4 mile climb from 4,600' to 8,241' and back.  All of the services were closed on the North Rim for the winter. While we were refueling, I decided to keep my pants and jacket just in case the weather is bad on top.  I decided to leave one of my food bags at the campground so I didn't have to carry the extra weight on the climb.  This proved to be a good calculation as I did not need all that food for this section.  I took what I needed and we pressed on.

We started to wonder when the others would pass us coming down.  I figured it would be soon.

This next section was a bear.  It was steep and technical.  It was hard to run any but a few sections of this section.  As a bonus and something to take our minds off of the slow trudge, a completely different set of views unfolded in front of us.

Exiting out of the Pumphouse Ranger Station

Half way up!

As we were making progress, we still hadn't seen the rest of the group.  Both Gary and I thought that something went wrong and they were planning to bail on the North Rim.  I was thinking, I could bail with them, but I left my food bag down at the Pumphouse Ranger Station - I wouldn't want to leave that!  I felt tired and ready for the climb to be over.  I knew that for the return trip, I would have to dig deep to see what I had left inside physically and emotionally.

We finally ran into them at one quarter mile from the top.  They looked strong, regardless of how they were feeling, they looked really strong.  It turns out that both Steven and John ran out of water and went looking for a refill on the top. This diversion cost them about 30 minutes.

Steven tried to talk us into turning around with them and joining up for the rest of the run. We declined as we have yet to make it to the top and didn't want to have any doubt that we did the entire thing.  Also, I needed a break!

2 switchbacks later, we made it to the North Rim at 12:45.  8.5 hours into the run.  

North Kaibab Trailhead sign.

It was beautiful weather on top - I was happy, but mad that I had to drag my jacket and wind pants up that climb for nothing...We sat, ate and got busy back down before we talked ourselves out of continuing forward.  We stopped for 15 minutes.

Selfie at Supai Tunnel

Supai Tunnel

As we descended, it was very steep and technical.  This was the most dangerous section of the day. We were tired and didn't want to trip, fall, stub a toe, etc.  So we descended carefully and purposely.  As the afternoon wore on, the sun laid new shadows and contrasts that were stunning.

Me at the Coconino point overlook

Gary at the Coconino point overlook

A view, I never want to forget...

We made it back down to the Pumphouse Ranger Station in about the same amount of time that it took us to climb to the top.  I spent more time taking it easy and documenting the landscape with my camera phone. Gary ran out of water on the way down so we shared what I had left until we could refill.

I proceeded to visit the outhouse again at the Pumphouse - I promise you that it earned its name pumphouse for a reason!  Again feeling very refreshed as my GI issues were gone, we laid out all of our food on a picnic table, and started eating and eating and eating.  

Up walked a runner dressed in a kilt and a rainbow hat with a propeller attached to it.  He looked pretty out of it.  I urged him to take some food from me.  After he initially refused, he finally took some.  I didn't want to carry the extra food anymore anyway.  We bid him good wishes and we pushed forward.

In my mind, it was a quick run to Phantom Ranch.  I forgot it was nearly 9 miles.  Gary led the way alternating running and speed walking.  (in fact, Gary led the way the entire day).  It was a perfect pace.  I mentioned to him how good I felt but didn't want to jinx anything...2 hours later I wasn't feeling so good! 

As were running through the Cottonwood campground, we were talking about if we were going to call this run our first 50.  I thought it was a great idea, but I'm not sure that I want to ever do another....A group of campers overheard our conversation and asked us if we were going to the "Tonto".  I stopped and asked what that was.  He explained that it was a two mile run between the Bright Angel and the South Kaibab trailheads on the South Rim.  That would give us the four miles that we needed to make it an official 50 mile run.   I said out loud that that wasn't going to happen.  The entire campsite erupted in laughter as we pressed on through.

The wheels are starting to come off....

The same waterfall at Bright Angel Creek

We were losing sunlight as we passed through Vishnu's and then into Phantom Ranch.  I was struggling to keep pace. The wheels were about to come off for me and Gary knew it.  As we entered the campground, Gary wouldn't let me sit down and made me eat and drink to refuel.  It was a good move on his part.  If I sat down, it would have been very hard to get going again.  

As we repacked our bags, the realization that we have about 10 miles to go - mostly uphill in the dark.  I got my headlight back on and started to move on.  Running with headlamps is an interesting phenomenon for me.  

It allows me to focus on just the spot of light in my focus.  When we were climbing the North Rim, it was mentally exhausting because I could see the top and it never seemed to get any closer. With the light, I am able to focus on just keeping moving forward.  (Dori from the movie Finding Nemo comes to mind - "Just keep swimming, just keep swimming...")  I can't see the top or anything else.

Eventually, I will get there.  Gary predicted 5 more hours and we would be done. I thought that sounded longer than what it would take.  I kept that thought to myself as he is usually right on the money with his predictions.  I was feeling much better after refueling.  I had the remainder of my food in my front pack for easy access and I had enough water to get to the Indian Garden's campground.  About 5 miles.  

We power hiked the climb and ran any downhills and flats that we encountered.  Gary would get ahead and I would just keep pace.  My mind started to get into a meditative state.  I was reflecting on how much fun it would be to take a few days to do this with Gina and the kids - when the kids are older.  We could do it like most of the people that experience the Canyon - on Mules.  It would be an amazing experience.  I hope we can.  

I became very grateful that Gina allows me to explore this part of me and continues to support my peculiarities ( a big word for 'craziness').  I am so lucky to have such an amazing supportive family.  I was thinking how grateful I was to experience this day with such amazing friends in Gary, John, Steve and Dave.  I was thinking how great it was to be alive and living each day to the fullest extent.  I was thinking about how blessed I am with all of the gifts in my life.  

As I pressed on with full of emotion, the climb didn't seem so bad.  We entered Indian Garden at about 2 hours.  We refilled enough water to get us through the final push. 4.7 miles to go.  

The final climb was steep!  It was broken up into 3 mile and 1.5 mile rest areas.  We set our sights for these sections.  We started to see a few headlights in the distance up the side of the cliff.  Gary figured it out to be John and Steven.  We started communicating through yelling.   I couldn't believe that they were so close! It gave us both bursts of energy.  I was emptying the reservoir of what I had left - which was dwindling fast.  

Ominous Warning which I failed to heed....

There seemed to be hundreds of switchbacks.  Gary was about a full switchback ahead of me and as we passed each other, he explained that each switchback was a victory.  So as we passed we acknowledged each other with a victory salutation.  Every few switches, I stopped to stretch and rest.  The trudge ends with a long relatively flat section to the trailhead.  I always get emotional at the end of a challenge such as this.  I passed those last 100 yards wiping my eyes. Thank God it was over.  Steven was at the finish to catch us up with his experience and to walk us to our rooms.  They were just 15 minutes ahead of us. Final stats - 46 miles, 17 hours 45 minutes

Everyone finished strong.  I'm looking forward to talking with John yet to hear how his day and his buddy's day went. 

We had an Epic Day!  I need a massage....

I enjoyed my trip and I didn't get bit!

Grand Canyon Run. August 31st - September 1st 2012

I am going to start out by saying that this was, by far, the best run I have ever done.  We didn't do the full rim to rim to rim, but under the circumstances it was a wise decision. More on that later.   

The idea to do this was hatched around Christmas 2011 at Gary Benson’s house.   We have been doing these crazy adventures together for the last 20 years. As usual, he enthusiastically agreed to the idea.  My good friend and neighbor, John Stevens was on board early as well.  The three of us have had many adventures together including a mountain bike ride from Telluride, CO to Moab, UT, a few 50K’s and countless trail runs/mountain bike rides. 

 As we started to plan it, other than the mileage, the heat seemed to be the biggest challenge.  We weren't too worried about the elevation changes.  We decided that this was definitely doable at night.  To add to the adventure, we picked a full moon night to maximize the light on the trail and beauty of the scenery.  September 1st was our chosen date.

We spent most of the year doing long runs on weekends that involved big elevation changes.  We ran a few 14'ers at night to get used to using our headlights, and hand-held flashlights.  The biggest run I did was Echo Lake (10,600’) to Chicago Lakes en route to Mount Spaulding (13,858’) over night.  It was an eight-hour adventure.  After doing this I felt that I was ready for the Grand Canyon.  The others did various other excursions, including the Leadville 50 mile mountain bike race, runs up and down Argentine Pass out of Silver Plume, CO, century rides, crazy cross-training work-outs at Red Rocks amphitheater, and of course, ton’s of trail runs/snowshoe runs. 

Enter Conrad Laporte.  He began joining us on our winter snowshoe adventures in February.  He is a great athlete and friend with the same sense for adventure and zest for life that we have.  He is 20 years younger than us.  We mentioned the Grand Canyon idea and he was sold. (Not sure if it was naïveté or bravado, but he was full on board!)  We had several others of our friends that we trained with all year, but were not able to make it.  Conrad stuck around with us on our weekend adventures.  He had never run more than 6 miles before he met us.   He is such a good athlete; we all thought he would be able to pull this off, even without any experience.  Turned out, he did the best of all of us!

We started our drive at about 5:30 on Thursday morning.  On the drive, we listened, “Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen” by Christopher Mcdougall on Audiobook.  It was the perfect preview to the run we were about to embark upon.  It is an amazing story with a side bar diatribe about running in barefoot shoes.  Both Gary and I ran with barefoot shoes, as we have been for the past 2 plus years.   Conrad and John wore their trail shoes. 

We arrived at the GC at noon on Friday.  John and his wife Tracy, had secured a room at the North Rim Lodge. While they were checking in at the hotel we got to see the “big hole” for the first time.

When I get nervous, I joke around a lot.  I exclaimed that the canyon wasn’t so “grand”, it was definitely great, but not “grand”.  Denial!!! Standing at the North Rim, the view is indescribable.  Pictures do not do it justice!

The plan was to start at 4pm, run through the night starting form the North Rim.  I figured it would take about 6 hours to run across from North to South, then immediately turn back to the North Rim.  I figured about 10 hours for the return trip.  We timed it so it would be cool at the bottom of the canyon.  Daytime temps go well over 100 degrees at this time of year.  The forecast at the North Rim was a high of 72, low of 49.  At Phantom Ranch (the low elevation point of the trek) the forecast was a high of 99 and low of 72.  The temp never got below 80.

We were taking the North Kaibab trail to the Bright Angel Trail.  A total of 23 miles each way with a significant descent of over 6000’ then an ascent of about 5000’ to the South Rim.

While we were preparing/resting at the North Rim Lodge, I thought that John and Conrad would go together and Gary and I would pair off due to similar abilities.  We each went over our nutrition plans and agreed to be open to the potential changes. Sometimes, for whatever reason, it just doesn’t work.  We all had a ton of food.  The trail descriptions told of several water sources along the route.  That was encouraging, but we agreed to fill our water bladders full every time – in case we miss a water station.  It will be dark and none of us had ever done this.  There was too much at stake to risk running out of water. 

4pm – we were off.  Tracy joined us on the hike down.  It started raining, thunder and lightening too.  Tracy turned back after about 30 minutes.  We put on our rain gear.  Had Tracy hiked with us for 5 more minutes, she would have seen an amazing view at the “cocnino overlook”.

The rain was cold.  I began to worry since all my warm gear was now on me and I was getting cold.  If the rain continues, it would have been a long, wet and cold night.   Got to keep moving…JFR….

The rain stopped after about 15 minutes and it got really hot and humid.  Again, worry set in.  I started to up the water intake and salt pills as I didn’t want to dehydrate or stat to cramp. 

My nutrition plan was to eat as much solid food early while supplementing with power gels, then switch to power gels only as my stomach stopped tolerating the solids.  My philosophy was to keep “topping off the tank” instead of depleting all of my energy stores and trying to catch up.  I had PB and J sandwiches, Kind and Lara bars, beef jerky, granola, cookies, gum drops, and power gels. 

The trail was very dusty and steep.  The rain wet the top layer and settled down the dust.  It made it easer to run/breathe. There were a lot of switchbacks early on and we descended quickly.  Within an hour, the trail turned rocky and technical.  The scenery was unbelievable, but it was had to run the technical trail and take in the views.  I stopped to take several pictures along the way.  I knew that once the sun went down, the scenery would be barely visible, and my camera doesn’t work well in the dark. 

We made it to the Cottonwood campground in 2 hours.  We seemed to be on track for my predicted time.  We all stuck together. John was having stomach issues early and was working himself through them.  He ALWAYS has trouble at 3 hours into a workout and this was no exception.  He changed some things up and recovered well. 

We then made it to the Phantom Ranch (PR) in 4 hours.  It was now completely dark.  No sign of the moon yet.  At Phantom Ranch we met with some campers.  There were several picnic tables set up and people were huddled around conversing.  The PR general store opened soon after we arrived and all of the campers went inside for food and beers.  I purchased a PR tee shirt for a souvenir. 

Gary and Conrad were also starting to experience stomach issues.  We filled up our water, hit the bathrooms and started back on our trek.

As we left the Phantom Ranch, we could see movement in the brush off the trail.  Our headlights lit up glowing eyes of deer literally 10 feet off the trail.  Very surreal.  I kept hoping there were no mountain lions behind the deer.  Any of these animals could have posed a serious challenge had they decided to come at us…we quietly pressed onward, and they thankfully stayed put.

We were about to cross the Colorado River.  That meant it was now all uphill until we reach the South Rim.  We power hiked from here.  No one was feeling all that great, the heat/humidity really sapped our energy.  The full moon became visible as we crossed the bridge over the Colorado River.  It was beautiful.  We tried to leave our headlamps off, but the trail was too technical.  It seemed like a long sandy hike as we came out of the direct river valley.  There were several stream crossings on the Bright Angel trail. 

We entered a steep area of switchbacks called the Devil’s Corkscrew.  Gary and I were sharing my water at this point.  His energy drink was not agreeing with his stomach at all.  We were both getting dehydrated.  Conrad and John decided to leave Gary and I at this point.  We agreed to keep in touch via walkie-talkie every hour.  Gary and I slogged up through the corkscrew.  The advantage of hiking at night is that you only focus on what you can see with your light source. 

But…we could now see the South Rim Village lit up clearly.  It looked close….but it wasn’t!

An hour went by and we contacted the other group.  They were at the Indian Garden Campground attending to the blisters on their feet.  They were waiting for us.  We all filled up to get ready for the hardest climb.  From the Indian Garden to the top is only 4.7 miles, but there was 3000 feet of climbing in front of us – and the teasing lights of the South Rim Village around every turn giving us false hope that we were close. 

There were rest/water stops at 3 miles and 1.5 miles before the Rim.  We were travelling very slowly at this point.  Arriving at each rest stop at 45 minute intervals.  That is 30 minutes to travel 1 mile.  A turtle’s pace! 

We finally reached the top at 9 hours, 11 minutes.  No one felt all that great.  My kidneys and left knee were bothering me.  After taking inventory of everyone, we decided that if it took us 9 plus hours going the easier way, it would have taken us over 12 hours to get back.  It was now 1 am.  We also would have been at the base of the canyon in the heat of the next day and it would have been quite dangerous. 

The south rim was 20 degrees colder with a stiff wind. It was probably high 40’s low 50’s   I became chilled pretty quickly.  I was not disappointed in our decision to stay the night.  We secured a room at the El Tovar Hotel.  It was very nice.  We all showered and crashed hard. 

We awoke early to try to figure out how to get back to the North Rim.  The Shuttles were $85 per person – cash.  Thankfully John’s wife Tracy agreed to drive the 4 plus hour trip around the canyon to save us.  We must have been quite a sight to see!

Tracy drove us to the North Rim and we ate at Jacob Lake Inn, a great little restaurant one hour north of the North Rim. We then went back to Kanab to sleep the night, get packed and headed back to Denver.  John and Tracy were planning to stay a few days longer to vacation together.  Although they ended up going home early Sunday Morning too.

We drove through Zion National Park and took in the views.  Equally amazing scenery as the Grand Canyon.  As we progressed home, Gary, Conrad and I were trying to think if there was any better run that we had ever done.  Gary mentioned the Porcupine Rim Trail in Moab as one of his favorites.  I agreed it was awesome but paled in comparison to what we had just done.  NOTHING COMPARED TO WHAT WE HAD JUST DONE!  Even though we didn’t complete the quest, we were alive to tell about it!

Long story short, we detoured into Moab and ran an hour on the Porcupine Rim trail before lightening strikes scared us back to our car.

Adventure complete with plans to return to the Grand Canyon in the near future to complete our quest.  We also posed the idea to do a marathon next month in Colorado Springs.

It was really nice to sleep in my own bed last night!  The perfect end to an amazing weekend!

Thanks for all the support and well wishes from our families and friends.  Your good vibes were with us every step of the way.

It seems that when I commune with nature, especially during adventures like these, I get to know myself more with every step I take. And with every step I take, I recognize what a gift my life is and how much I cherish it. I know God has a plan for me and this meditation brought me closer than ever to recognize his greatness. I feel very blessed.

Even though I was away from my family, I hope someday that we can experience portions of this with them.   I am especially grateful to have shared this with such great friends.  I am sure it was a defining moment for all of us.

Peace!

Brett