I am going to start out by saying that this was, by far, the
best run I have ever done. We didn't do the full rim to rim to rim, but under
the circumstances it was a wise decision. More on that later.
The idea to do this was hatched around Christmas 2011 at Gary
Benson’s house. We have been doing these crazy adventures together for
the last 20 years. As usual, he enthusiastically agreed to the idea. My good friend and neighbor, John
Stevens was on board early as well.
The three of us have had many adventures together including a mountain
bike ride from Telluride, CO to Moab, UT, a few 50K’s and countless trail
runs/mountain bike rides.
As we started to plan it, other than the mileage, the
heat seemed to be the biggest challenge. We weren't too worried about the
elevation changes. We decided that this was definitely doable at
night. To add to the adventure, we
picked a full moon night to maximize the light on the trail and beauty of the
scenery. September 1st was our chosen date.
We spent most of the year doing long runs on
weekends that involved big elevation changes. We ran a few 14'ers at
night to get used to using our headlights, and hand-held flashlights. The
biggest run I did was Echo Lake (10,600’) to Chicago Lakes en route to Mount
Spaulding (13,858’) over night. It was an eight-hour adventure.
After doing this I felt that I was ready for the Grand Canyon. The others did various other excursions,
including the Leadville 50 mile mountain bike race, runs up and down Argentine
Pass out of Silver Plume, CO, century rides, crazy cross-training work-outs at
Red Rocks amphitheater, and of course, ton’s of trail runs/snowshoe runs.
Enter Conrad Laporte. He began joining us
on our winter snowshoe adventures in February. He is a great athlete and
friend with the same sense for adventure and zest for life that we have. He is 20 years younger than us. We mentioned the Grand Canyon idea and
he was sold. (Not sure if it was naïveté or bravado, but he was full on
board!) We had several others of
our friends that we trained with all year, but were not able to make it. Conrad stuck around with us on our
weekend adventures. He had never run more than 6 miles before he met
us. He is such a good athlete;
we all thought he would be able to pull this off, even without any
experience. Turned out, he did the
best of all of us!
We started our drive at about 5:30 on Thursday morning. On the drive, we listened, “Born to Run:
A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen”
by Christopher Mcdougall on Audiobook.
It was the perfect preview to the run we were about to embark upon. It is an amazing story with a side bar
diatribe about running in barefoot shoes.
Both Gary and I ran with barefoot shoes, as we have been for the past 2
plus years. Conrad and John
wore their trail shoes.
We arrived at the GC at noon on Friday. John and his wife Tracy, had secured a
room at the North Rim Lodge. While they were checking in at the hotel we got to
see the “big hole” for the first time.
When I get nervous, I joke around a lot. I exclaimed that the canyon wasn’t so
“grand”, it was definitely great, but not “grand”. Denial!!! Standing at the North Rim, the view is indescribable. Pictures do not do it justice!
The plan was to start at 4pm, run through the night starting
form the North Rim. I figured it
would take about 6 hours to run across from North to South, then immediately
turn back to the North Rim. I
figured about 10 hours for the return trip. We timed it so it would be cool at the bottom of the
canyon. Daytime temps go well over
100 degrees at this time of year.
The forecast at the North Rim was a high of 72, low of 49. At Phantom Ranch (the low elevation point
of the trek) the forecast was a high of 99 and low of 72. The temp never got below 80.
We were taking the North Kaibab trail to the Bright Angel
Trail. A total of 23 miles each
way with a significant descent of over 6000’ then an ascent of about 5000’ to
the South Rim.
While we were preparing/resting at the North Rim Lodge, I
thought that John and Conrad would go together and Gary and I would pair off
due to similar abilities. We each
went over our nutrition plans and agreed to be open to the potential changes. Sometimes,
for whatever reason, it just doesn’t work. We all had a ton of food. The trail descriptions told of several water sources along
the route. That was encouraging,
but we agreed to fill our water bladders full every time – in case we miss a
water station. It will be dark and
none of us had ever done this.
There was too much at stake to risk running out of water.
4pm – we were off.
Tracy joined us on the hike down.
It started raining, thunder and lightening too. Tracy turned back after about 30
minutes. We put on our rain
gear. Had Tracy hiked with us for
5 more minutes, she would have seen an amazing view at the “cocnino overlook”.
The rain was cold.
I began to worry since all my warm gear was now on me and I was getting
cold. If the rain continues, it
would have been a long, wet and cold night. Got to keep moving…JFR….
The rain stopped after about 15 minutes and it got really hot
and humid. Again, worry set
in. I started to up the water
intake and salt pills as I didn’t want to dehydrate or stat to cramp.
My nutrition plan was to eat as much solid food early while
supplementing with power gels, then switch to power gels only as my stomach
stopped tolerating the solids. My
philosophy was to keep “topping off the tank” instead of depleting all of my
energy stores and trying to catch up.
I had PB and J sandwiches, Kind and Lara bars, beef jerky, granola,
cookies, gum drops, and power gels.
The trail was very dusty and steep. The rain wet the top layer and settled down the dust. It made it easer to run/breathe. There
were a lot of switchbacks early on and we descended quickly. Within an hour, the trail turned rocky
and technical. The scenery was
unbelievable, but it was had to run the technical trail and take in the
views. I stopped to take several
pictures along the way. I knew
that once the sun went down, the scenery would be barely visible, and my camera
doesn’t work well in the dark.
We made it to the Cottonwood campground in 2 hours. We seemed to be on track for my
predicted time. We all stuck
together. John was having stomach issues early and was working himself through
them. He ALWAYS has trouble at 3
hours into a workout and this was no exception. He changed some things up and recovered well.
We then made it to the Phantom Ranch (PR) in 4 hours. It was now completely dark. No sign of the moon yet. At Phantom Ranch we met with some
campers. There were several picnic
tables set up and people were huddled around conversing. The PR general store opened soon after
we arrived and all of the campers went inside for food and beers. I purchased a PR tee shirt for a
souvenir.
Gary and Conrad were also starting to experience stomach
issues. We filled up our water,
hit the bathrooms and started back on our trek.
As we left the Phantom Ranch, we could see movement in the
brush off the trail. Our
headlights lit up glowing eyes of deer literally 10 feet off the trail. Very surreal. I kept hoping there were no mountain lions behind the
deer. Any of these animals could
have posed a serious challenge had they decided to come at us…we quietly
pressed onward, and they thankfully stayed put.
We were about to cross the Colorado River. That meant it was now all uphill until
we reach the South Rim. We power
hiked from here. No one was
feeling all that great, the heat/humidity really sapped our energy. The full moon became visible as we
crossed the bridge over the Colorado River. It was beautiful.
We tried to leave our headlamps off, but the trail was too technical. It seemed like a long sandy hike as we
came out of the direct river valley.
There were several stream crossings on the Bright Angel trail.
We entered a steep area of switchbacks called the Devil’s
Corkscrew. Gary and I were sharing
my water at this point. His energy
drink was not agreeing with his stomach at all. We were both getting dehydrated. Conrad and John decided to leave Gary and I at this
point. We agreed to keep in touch
via walkie-talkie every hour. Gary
and I slogged up through the corkscrew.
The advantage of hiking at night is that you only focus on what you can
see with your light source.
But…we could now see the South Rim Village lit up
clearly. It looked close….but it
wasn’t!
An hour went by and we contacted the other group. They were at the Indian Garden
Campground attending to the blisters on their feet. They were waiting for us. We all filled up to get ready for the hardest climb. From the Indian Garden to the top is
only 4.7 miles, but there was 3000 feet of climbing in front of us – and the
teasing lights of the South Rim Village around every turn giving us false hope
that we were close.
There were rest/water stops at 3 miles and 1.5 miles before
the Rim. We were travelling very
slowly at this point. Arriving at
each rest stop at 45 minute intervals.
That is 30 minutes to travel 1 mile. A turtle’s pace!
We finally reached the top at 9 hours, 11 minutes. No one felt all that great. My kidneys and left knee were bothering
me. After taking inventory of
everyone, we decided that if it took us 9 plus hours going the easier way, it
would have taken us over 12 hours to get back. It was now 1 am.
We also would have been at the base of the canyon in the heat of the
next day and it would have been quite dangerous.
The south rim was 20 degrees colder with a stiff wind. It was
probably high 40’s low 50’s
I became chilled pretty quickly.
I was not disappointed in our decision to stay the night. We secured a room at the El Tovar
Hotel. It was very nice. We all showered and crashed hard.
We awoke early to try to figure out how to get back to the
North Rim. The Shuttles were $85
per person – cash. Thankfully
John’s wife Tracy agreed to drive the 4 plus hour trip around the canyon to save
us. We must have been quite a
sight to see!
Tracy drove us to the North Rim and we ate at Jacob Lake Inn,
a great little restaurant one hour north of the North Rim. We then went back to
Kanab to sleep the night, get packed and headed back to Denver. John and Tracy were planning to stay a
few days longer to vacation together.
Although they ended up going home early Sunday Morning too.
We drove through Zion National Park and took in the
views. Equally amazing scenery as
the Grand Canyon. As we progressed
home, Gary, Conrad and I were trying to think if there was any better run that
we had ever done. Gary mentioned
the Porcupine Rim Trail in Moab as one of his favorites. I agreed it was awesome but paled in
comparison to what we had just done.
NOTHING COMPARED TO WHAT WE HAD JUST DONE! Even though we didn’t complete the quest, we were alive to
tell about it!
Long story short, we detoured into Moab and ran an hour on
the Porcupine Rim trail before lightening strikes scared us back to our car.
Adventure complete with plans to return to the Grand Canyon
in the near future to complete our quest.
We also posed the idea to do a marathon next month in Colorado Springs.
It was really nice to sleep in my own bed last night! The perfect end to an amazing weekend!
Thanks for all the support and well wishes from our families
and friends. Your good vibes were
with us every step of the way.
It seems that when I commune with nature, especially during
adventures like these, I get to know myself more with every step I take. And
with every step I take, I recognize what a gift my life is and how much I
cherish it. I know God has a plan for me and this meditation brought me closer
than ever to recognize his greatness. I feel very blessed.
Even though I was away from my family, I hope someday that we
can experience portions of this with them. I am especially grateful to have shared this with such
great friends. I am sure it was a
defining moment for all of us.
Peace!